The bold and defiant spirit of the new visible panty line
Charli XCX, the pop star known for her bold ‘Brat green’ aesthetic and defiant attitude, has set the tone for the summer by championing the new visible panty line (VPL).
What was once an unintended panty line showing through clothing has now become a deliberate fashion statement, with the waistbands of knickers intentionally worn above the waistlines of trousers and skirts.
In a dramatic Instagram post, Charli XCX showcased not just one but three visible boxer shorts waistbands. Beyond Billie Eilish, impactful underwear is making a strong statement across pop culture this summer.
Troye Sivan, who is set to tour with Charli XCX later this year, wore pink boxers visible above his checked wool trousers at the Cannes Film Festival in May. Euphoria actor Sydney Sweeney sported a Canadian tuxedo with a visible white boxer waistband, and South African pop star Tyla revealed a sliver of yellow Marni knickers above her waistband on a recent magazine cover.
The new visible panty line is a conscious styling choice
The visible panty line (VPL) trend is a conscious styling choice, balancing a unique blend of masculine and feminine elements. It feels rebellious, subversive, and self-assured, serving as a subtle yet strong expression of independence and defiance against societal norms.
This trend has been emerging from the runways for several years, with Miu Miu prominently featuring visible panty line waistbands and complex multiple stacked waistbands in their collections. The look has become so popular that brands like Bershka and Zara now offer trousers with a boxer-style waistband stitched above the actual waistband, mimicking the appearance of boxers peeking out.
The retro roots of the visible panty line
Although this trend is current, it also has retro roots. Calvin Klein initiated the visible underwear waistband trend in the 1980s, with iconic moments like Mark Wahlberg and Kate Moss exposing CK-branded waistbands. The Olympian Tomás Hintnaus even posed on a giant billboard in Times Square in just his CK Y-fronts.
This moment marked a shift towards overtly sexualizing the male body, a sentiment that resonates with modern perspectives on gender identity and stereotypes. Underwear as outerwear has been gaining traction, with boxers as shorts becoming a staple in women’s summer fashion and short men’s shorts resembling boxers, as seen on Paul Mescal.
Last year, Miu Miu popularized pants worn over tights, a look embraced by celebrities like Emma Corrin and Beyoncé. The trend continues with knickers peeking out from under sheer dresses, as seen on the set of “And Just Like That,” where Sarah Jessica Parker was photographed in black underwear beneath a translucent Simone Rocha design.
The difference this time compared to the ‘90s and ‘00s is the reduced visibility of branding and the increased gender fluidity in how the look is worn. While Mark Wahlberg’s iconic CK advert played on traditional masculinity, today’s trend sees traditionally men’s underwear worn by cisgender women or individuals with fluid approaches to gender and sexuality.
The bold and defiant spirit of the new visible panty line conclusion
While some might find the visible panty line quite alluring, as it teases without fully revealing and leaves much to the imagination, most women express a dislike for them.
A potential solution to the self-consciousness caused by VPL is wearing a thong. With nothing visible, it raises questions like, “Why wear underwear at all?”
Instead of worrying about VPL, why not embrace it just like Billie Eilish and Charli XCX? This approach makes any fashion style acceptable — thick seams, ruffles, and playful fabrics are all fair game, whether they show through your clothes or not.
